Here is the entire story from when I got the car and what it is doing now. I bought this clean 99 GT and there was a minor low rpm misfire but that was the only thing wrong. Well it has just got a little worse I think.
It is sputtering and hesitating in low rpm's from 1k to 2k rpm's and is more evident under heavier acceleration. Then above 2k rpm's the car seems to run fine and I cannot notice the miss.Forums New posts Search forums. Media New media Search media. Resources Latest reviews Search resources. Log in. Search Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. Everywhere Threads This forum This thread. Search Advanced…. New posts. Search forums. Missing Under Load Low Rpm's.
Mar 3, 0 17 40 Leonardtown, MD. Just got back from vacation for a week and the car gave me no problems. It sat for 2 days after that and when I drove it it seems to have a miss under load and sometimes at idle low RPM's.
The plugs, COP's, and fuel filter have all been changed recently. You don't really feel it just crushing unless you try to accelerate while the RPM's are below 2K. If you barley give it gas it is still pretty smooth. No codes are shown. Please help. Jan 9, 2 18 Minneapolis. Why were the COPs changed? Did you replace them with the factory COPs or with aftermarket pieces?
The reason I ask is in my experience a bad COP is the reason for misses. I cannot imagine a scenario where every COP is bad and they all need replacing. And I don't know when you last changed your plugs, but it might be worth doing at the same time. It's had it since I got the car so I've just slowly been replacing things. They have been on there for about a mouth and this problem just started on Monday. I took the car on vacation for a week and got home last Friday and parked it for the weekend.
On Monday it started missing while driving in low RPM's. The plugs were changed several months before the COP's.Home Articles Misfire How to Fix a Misfire Easy step by step guide on how to troubleshoot and repair an automotive engine cylinder misfire P, P, P, P, P, P, P, P and P, though appearances may vary, the process is similar for most vehicles.
Begin with the vehicle on level ground engine "OFF" and the parking brake set, wear protective gloves and clothing for safety. Step 1 - There are several combinations of misfire conditions, steady or random, at idle or under power, which may or may not be detected by the computer and trigger a check engine or service engine soon light, read trouble codes to help pinpoint the cylinder s in question and follow the repair guide below. Check Engine Light Step 2 - If no service light is triggered with a steady misfire, use an infrared thermo gun to test the exhaust temperature of each cylinder.
Infrared Temperature Meter Step 3 - Start the engine cold, quickly take a reading at the front of each cylinder's exhaust port on the manifold while maintaining similar placement of the beam over each individual port, a misfiring cylinder will be considerably colder than the remaining cylinders. Example: Three of the exhaust ports test at degrees while one is at 81 degrees, the cylinder at 81 degrees is misfiring.
Exhaust Temperature Step 4 - If no results are yet gleaned, start the engine and allow to idle, remove the fuel injector electrical connector on each cylinder one at a time while observing the engine performance, if no change is observed at a particular cylinder, the misfiring cylinder has been located. Remove Ignition Coil Connector Step 6 - Once the misfiring cylinder has been located, remove the spark plug for inspection, before removing the spark plugs, mark the plug wires if equipped to identify their positions in the firing order, this will help for proper reassembly.
Remove Spark Plug Step 7 - When a cylinder s runs rich it will carbon foul the spark plug causing it to short circuit. Malfunctions for this condition include partially plugged fuel injector or catalytic converterlow compressionfailed fuel pressure regulator and excessive fuel mixture.
Carbon Fouled Spark Plug Step 8 - A wet spark plug with gas or oil can mean a fuel injector is stuck open, fuel regulator has failed, no cylinder compression, broken piston oil control ring, blown head gasket or excessive leakage from the valve stem seals. Spark Plug Fouled with Gas or Oil Step 9 - A spark plug must be properly gapped with a specific measurement from the electrode, a misadjusted air gap can result in a misfire.
Misadjusted Air Gap Step 10 - Using a proper spark plug with a correct air gap will help ensure operation of the ignition system. Correct Spark Plug Step 11 - If the spark plug is wet with fuel or carbon fouled upon removal, a compression check is needed, perform a cylinder compression test to locate a mechanical failure. If compression is low, it could mean worn out or broken piston rings, flat camshaft, broken valve spring, burnt or leaking intake or exhaust valves, dropped valve seat or blown head gasket.
Compression Test Step 12 - If the compression test is okay along with a wet spark plug, the ignition coil needs to be tested. Test Ignition Coil Output Step 13 - Spark plug wires are designed to transfer an electrical charge from the coil to the spark plug, when these cables wear, they can short circuit causing a misfire.
Shorted Spark Plug Wires Step 14 - A fuel injector regulates the amount of fuel which is consumed by the engine, if the injector operation has failed the cylinder will misfire. Test Fuel Injector Operation Step 15 - A random misfire is can be associated with broken or dilapidated vacuum hoses or tubes on and around the engine causing a vacuum leakthese hoses are typically connected to the engine intake manifold and supply engine vacuum to various accessories such as the brake system.
What Should I do If My Engine Misfires?
If an intake gasket fails or a vacuum line that is close to an intake port it will cause a steady misfire. Repair Vacuum Leak Step 16 - Fuel pressure must maintain a constant pressure, if this flow is impeded by a clogged fuel filter or weak fuel pump the engine can produce a random misfire. Fuel Pump Pressure Check Step 17 - A mass air flow sensor sends feedback information to the computer, as this sensor wears it can produce false data causing a misfire. Mass Air Flow Sensor Step 18 - Each intake and exhaust valve utilizes a spring which will return the valve to its original position closed.
If a valve spring has broken or a cam lobe has worn down, it will cause the engine to misfire and run rough due to the loss of compression.
These conditions don't always show up in a compression testbecause a compression test is performed at engine cranking speed. If a camshaft lobe is halfway worn down, it will show up only when the engine is running and under load. Flat Camshaft Lobe Step 19 - In some conditions a broken valve spring can effect different aspects of engine performance for example: If just a small part of a coil breaks off, the spring can still close the valve but only at low RPM's, causing a high RPM misfire.
What could cause my car to misfire under load, like climbing a hill?
If the spring breaks somewhere in the middle it will affect both idle and power conditions. To test for this condition, remove ignition coil connector or ignition system or fuel pump fuse to disable the engine from starting. Remove valve cover s to gain access to visually inspect the valve train. Inspect the condition of the valve springs, use a flashlight and small mirror to aid in the inspection.
Have a helper crank the engine over while observing rocker arms and cam lobes, confirming full movement, if one or more lobes are traveling less than the others the camshaft has a flattened lobe and replacement is required. Valve Spring and Rocker Arm Step 20 - A head gasket is used to seal the cylinder head to the engine block.
The cylinder head is fastened to the engine block using head bolts that are tightened to a specific torque. When a head gasket wears blows it can allow coolant or exhaust gasses to enter the combustion chamber causing a cylinder misfire.There are many systems in place to ensure that the engine in your vehicle will operate as designed.
A smoothly running engine is often taken for granted until a problem comes to light and the operator is left to diagnose the problem. A misfire is often chalked up to ignition timing when, in fact, there are a number of reasons the engine could be running rough. If you find yourself in the unfortunate position of having a misfire in your Dodge Ram, understand that there are many reasons your vehicle might be acting up.
The first process that must be investigated when a misfire is detected is the ignition system. This consists of the timing, distributor, coil, spark plugs, plug wires and electrical components, including the charging system. As these components begin to fail, the initial misfire will be very slight and difficult to detect. As the components deteriorate into a more advanced case of ill repair, the problem will become more noticeable.
Left unattended, this can lead to complete failure, and the vehicle will cease to operate completely. Popping noises back through the intake manifold, severe surging and jerking accompanied by a rough idle and poor acceleration are all signs of an ignition problem. Periodic inspection of the ignition system is recommended to prevent such ignition difficulty.
Check the spark plug wires for damage and ensure that they are on the spark plugs tightly. If your vehicle is distributor equipped, you should also check the rotor for damage and wear. Check the timing itself with a timing light to ensure it is within specification. Another common reason and typically missed diagnosis for a rough running engine is the lean misfire. In this case, the engine is receiving too much air and not enough fuel. This is most noticeable while the engine is resting at idle since this is when an engine typically requires more fuel to operate smoothly.
The lean misfire condition is likely to disappear at highway speeds due to the more efficient flow into the combustion chambers. Some of the causes for a lean condition are EGR valves that are stuck in the open position, leaking intake manifold gaskets, faulty mass air flow sensors if your vehicle is so equipped and plugged fuel filters and bad fuel pumps. Vacuum leaks are also the culprits for some lean conditions in an engine. A close inspection of your rubber vacuum tubing as well as periodic changes of your fuel filter and cleaning of your fuel injectors are invaluable in staying ahead of any fuel-related problems with your vehicle.
Once again, it is much better and in most cases more cost-effective to be proactive as opposed to reactive in the maintenance department. Perhaps the most costly misfire malfunction to correct is the mechanical misfire. Bad head gaskets, worn piston rings, bad valves and worn cylinder walls are all culprits. Damaged or broken rocker arms, broken valve springs, and worn camshaft lobes or lifters are also reasons for mechanical misfiring. Most of these failures will be accompanied by some form of internal engine noise.
A worn timing chain will often rattle as it slaps the timing cover, and a broken rocker arm will sound like a big piece of metal is rattling around inside the top of your engine. Other failures such as a broken valve spring may make no noise at all other than the engine popping and pinging. These mechanical failures are often heard as a more consistent noise and will in most cases increase in relative equality with vehicle engine speed.
This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information. To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Mechanical Misfire Perhaps the most costly misfire malfunction to correct is the mechanical misfire.
About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.Remember Me? BMW Models. Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 25 of Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Anybody know what could cause this? I know that the ECU controls the fuel injector pulse length, I'm thinking maybe it's an injector?
Does it also modify spark length for different conditions? If you don't have overlap and therefore EGR, you might have pinging at high load and low rpm which causes the ECU to retard ignition and loss of power. A faulty CPS would exacerbate the symptoms at higher rpm to eventually cause something of a rev limiter where the engine is cut off becuse the trigger pulse doesn't rise fast enough to be registered as a running engine.
Originally Posted by overide Originally Posted by granlund. There are always other fish engines in the sea Craigslist Life is about enjoying the engine you are sitting behind. What sort of plugs did you replace them with. Getting nay contamination on the plugs will foul them. Originally Posted by randomy. Those are good plugs to use, due to your symptoms, I would replace them.
What Can Cause a Misfire in a Ford 3.0 Engine?
The increased pressure is more likely to result in full detonation of the air mixture, where it cannot be acvieved at lower RPM due to fouled plugs. Of couse that is based on speculation that the plugs are the issue, but I found it likely. I ran the Bosch platinums for a little bit aswell. One thing I immediately noticed is the car runs alot slower, and hesitant with them. Installed NGKs and it was a whole new car. So I think there's a little bit of oil left around the spark plugs from when my valve cover gasket was leaking - I fixed it, but the oil remains.
I'm having trouble cleaning it out from around the plugs. An idea I had since I was going to replace the plugs anyway was to pull out the old plug, let the oil into the cylinder, reinstall the old plug, run it a bit to clear out the oil, then install the new plugs. However, this seems like it isn't great for the rest of the engine. What's a good way to get that oil out of there?! Originally Posted by dataxpress.
Originally Posted by Kody. If it's only a little bit it teaspoon it's okay to let it go into the cylinder, it will actually give you a better seal on your piston rings. They say it's due to fuel injectors. I would try taking them out and cleaning and rebuilding them, or sending them off to a shop, IIRC there is a guy on here that does it as well. Mine used to do it as well randomly, haven't had it happen since a rebuild of the injectors. Originally Posted by Nomade Yes, but that's not the full version.
You have to illegally download it to get the full documents, or have a connection with a BMW tech.A misfire in a 3. A misfire should be diagnosed from the simplest and most likely to the more complex. A worn or dirty spark plug is the first thing to inspect. If the spark plugs are OK, then the entire ignition system from the plug wires to the coil and the control module would be suspect. Look for any cracked or loose vacuum hoses and any other vacuum leaks.
A fuel injector can cause an identical miss to a spark plug if it is operating erratically. Look for a leak in the injectors around the body of the injector.
With the engine running, disconnect and reconnect the injectors one at a time, paying particular attention to the amount of RPM drop on each. Look for a cylinder that has very drop in RPM, in comparison to the other cylinders. Listen to see if the miss also dissipates in that same cylinder.
Listen to each injector for erratic clicking or operation. Use a rubber hose. One end goes to your ear, the other is placed on top of an injector. If an injector is suspect, have it cleaned with a cleaner directed to the injectors only. Check to see if the "Check Engine" light is on and, if so, what the codes are. A faulty crankshaft sensor or cam sensor can cause a misfire.
A mass air-flow sensor can cause a miss by transmitting a false signal to the computer, causing the computer to create a lean or rich mixture. An oxygen sensor can do the same thing. The computer itself can cause a misfire, although not as common, through a malfunction or a bad main ground to the computer. If everything checks out above, then the mechanical aspect of the engine should be checked. Start by removing all the spark plugs and disabling the ignition by unplugging the ignition module.
Take a compression test on all cylinders and keep track of all the readings on a piece of paper. Hold the throttle open and rotate the engine about seven times, making sure the same number of engine turns remain constant on all cylinders for an accurate reading. The cylinder balance should be within 10 percent or less on all cylinders. If one of the cylinders is lower than the others, one is leaking somewhere.
This would cause a definite leak if there is an unbalance.Uh Oh. It's a code P which tells you cylinder number four is misfiring. There are no other codes and the engine has a steady miss. Now what? Misfire diagnosis in this kind of situation should be fairly easy. You have a code, you know which cylinder is misbehaving, and you can hear and feel the misfire.
The cause has to be one of three things: ignition, fuel or compression. The hard-to-diagnose misfires are the ones that come and go and don't set any codes.Misfires while driving.
These are the ghosts that can drive you nuts. Fortunately, the supernatural has nothing to do with the problem. The underlying cause is still ignition, fuel or compression related. The challenge is pinpointing the cause and correcting it. Intermittent misfires are often caused by a weak spark or a lean fuel mixture. That piece of knowledge may not tell you what is causing the misfire, but it should help you plot a diagnostic course in one of two directions.
Random misfires are another type of misfire that can be hard to nail down. Random misfires that jump from one cylinder to another may be caused by a lean fuel condition or a weak spark.
The challenge here is figuring out what's upsetting the fuel mixture or robbing the spark. The underlying cause is often a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or behind the throttle body that allows unmetered air to bypass the airflow sensor. Lean misfire can also be caused by an EGR valve that is stuck open or is not closing fully. A few misfires are to be expected under these conditions, and should cause no major performance problems or significant increase in emissions.
But if the misfires get out of hand and occur too often, they can make the engine idle or run rough, stumble when accelerating, waste gas and fail an emissions test.
Engine Misfire Causes – Fuel, Ignition, Coolant Or Compression Related
The misfire monitor runs continuously when the engine is running. On most applications, the OBDII system uses the crankshaft position sensor CKP to look for subtle changes in the speed of the crankshaft between cylinder firings.
If the crank suddenly slows a bit, it indicates a misfire. The only problem with this approach to detecting misfires is that driving on a rough road sometimes fools the misfire monitor.
Consequently, some OBDII systems are programmed to temporarily ignore "misfires" under road conditions. On some vehicles, the amperage of the spark current is analyzed when each spark plug fires to determine if the mixture burned or not. When the OBDII system detects a misfire, it stores operating data such as engine speed, load and warm-up status. Because this might distract the driver from her cell phone conversation, sipping her Starbucks coffee or yelling at her kids in the back seat, the OBDII system will set a temporary misfire code after the second such occurrence.
From that point on, the MIL lamp should flash every time the misfire returns. If the same thing happens on the next trip, the MIL lamp should blink as before and remain on even when the misfire ceases.
If the misfire problem has gone away and does not reoccur on the second or following trips, the OBDII system may erase the temporary misfire code and forget the entire episode. The code may also be erased if no misfires are encountered under similar driving conditions during the next 40 drive cycles.
Knowing this, you should always look at the history freeze frame data when diagnosing a misfire code. If the code set when the engine was cold, chances are the OBDII system is being overly sensitive and there is no real misfire problem. Check for any technical service bulletins TSBs that may be out on the vehicle for false misfire codes.
On some cars, Volkswagen, for exampleit's possible to set false random or individual misfire codes when doing a cranking compression test. If this happens, just clear the codes after the test so the MIL lamp doesn't come on later.